The LA pop-up, however, remains and the question lingers: will this be the reckoning an ultra-pressured group of restaurants has long avoided? No waiting for the public redemption arc – but also, no useless vilifying of this man, whose past transgressions have previously been accepted. If unpaid labour helps them get there and there’s no punishment for it, why wouldn’t they take advantage of it? We’d never push for more speed or power without an anti-doping policy, and yet we’ve long seen the cost of these expectations in kitchens. In the next few weeks, an accreditation programme called VERiFAIR will launch, taking restaurant policies (and anonymously reported concerns) into account.

Source: The Guardian March 28, 2026 06:46 UTC